Thursday, January 21, 2010

Dry Valley Synopsis

So we spent a total of 13 days in the field collecting water and sediment samples for geochemical analyses (down from an anticipated 15 to 20 days). We initially departed McMurdo on Friday January 8th, 2010 and flew to our camp site near Lake Brownworth in Wright Valley. It was my first time on a helicopter, and the ride across the ice sheet and into the valley on the continent was extremely exciting (you could even see Weddell seals out on the ice sheet below - little black slugs). The helicopter initially dropped us off at our chosen campsite along with 2 survival bags...we then had to wait appx 3 hours for the helo to return with our sling load of camping gear (protocols will not allow the helos to transport passengers and sling loads simultaneously). Luckily the weather was clear, and we received our gear and set up our first camp. We drank water out of a nearby pond and the Onyx River, the most clear and fresh tasting water I've ever had. We then spent the next 6 successive days hiking up to various glaciers along their drainages (some were running; some not). Nothing but rocks, snow, ice, and water (well, and a few mummified seal carcasses...sad to see).

Wright Valley high point: getting visited by Italian scientists from Terra Nova Station (they brought us chocolates; apparently, if you want to live/work/see Antarctica in style, get in with the Italians)
Wright Valley low point: hmmm...can't think of a major one...maybe the ~13 mile roundtrip (hiking in bunny boots) down part of the Onyx and back...especially since you end the day hiking against the (cold) wind.

We were then picked up and transported to Taylor Valley (an established station exists at Lake Hoare...yes, pronounced as you think it is..but we again had our own tent camp). Basically same scene: set up camp, hike up and down to various glaciers. I must say however, I really enjoyed the beauty of Taylor Valley even more than Wright. Maybe it was the closer proximity of the glaciers or the view of the "Matterhorn". Either way, using our makeshift "bathroom" in the great outdoors afforded incredible views at any turn. The weather more or less cooperated, with the threat of minor Katabatic winds on Sunday the 17th and a bitterly cold, cloudy and foggy day (complete with blowing snow) on our last collecting day and strenous hike down to Lake Fryxell, up to Howard Glacier, and back to camp. Since we put in long days, we were able to leave the field early and depart the Dry Valleys on Wednesday, January 19th, 2010.

Taylor Valley high point: Hiking up to the west side of Goldman Glacier, seeing nearly completely intact mummified seals, and playing "Nouns" in our tent (ok, ok, that was more than one thing).
Taylor Valley low point: leaving the Dry Valleys (although I was desperate to for a shower and proper bathroom :)) and the high algae content in our drinking water (enough said there).

We are now in the process of returning our gear/packing up samples, etc and preparing to leave McMurdo and Antarctica behind (hopefully to return again someday...). In addition, I had the privilege tonight to hear Sir David Attenborough speak on Birds of Paradise. He ended the evening by answering questions and regaling us with some humorous tales. Makes me realize I have a long way to go in order to lead an extraordinary (and purposeful?) life, but this was a good first step. Hopefully the future brings many more unique opportunities.

Will post photos soon.

Cheers,
Kristen

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